Installation Instructions for Scandian Wood Floors Prefinished Engineered Wood Flooring:

(To include 3/8" Bacana and 3/8" and 1/2" Bonita Collection)

Scandian Wood Floors entire line of prefinished engineered flooring can be installed on all grade levels; on grade, above grade and below grade. This includes installation directly to concrete, terrazzo and wood sub floors, or over existing ceramic tile, wood and vinyl floors, with proper preparation.

Scandian Wood Floors recommends only the use of qualified hardwood flooring professionals for the installation of engineered wood products.

Scandian Wood Floors only recommends the use of a Moisture Cured Urethane Adhesive or VOC Compliant Solvent Adhesive. Water based adhesives can cause the flooring to cup or expand causing checking, gapping or cupping from the excessive water.

Installer/Owner Responsibility:

It is the responsibility of the owner and or installer to inspect the flooring. It is the owner/ installer's responsibility to ensure the jobsite conditions plus the jobsite sub floors are environmentally and structurally acceptable before installation is started.

Prior to installation, the owner and or installer is responsible for the final inspection of materials and is encouraged to report any deficiencies in grade, manufacture and finish directly to the seller. Should an individual piece be questionable or not meet standards, it should not be used. Materials installed with visible defects will not be covered by warranty.

The owner and or installer is responsible for ensuring that the proper installation conditions and appropriate sub floor surfaces meet or exceed all industry standards and/or Scandian Wood Floor standards. Proper installation can be effected by moisture content of the flooring, moisture content of job site, improper or lack of preparation of job site, improper or lack of preparation of all sub floor surfaces, and flooring layout. The sub floor must be clean, flat, dry and structurally sound.

We adhere to the Wood Floor Association recommendations of ordering 5% above the actual square footage requirements to allow for cutting and grading of material.

The natural beauty of color and graining in exotic species require the installer to layout the floor to disburse the color within the species around the room.

As a general rule work from 5-6 different cartons of products at one time to properly match color, grade, and length. Laying out 6-8 rows of product before installing will allow you to mix board lengths and shades, and it will help to ensure end joints are properly aligned to the preceding row.

Proper Site Conditions and Handling:

• The building must be complete and enclosed. It is essential that masonry, dry wall, paint and all other "wet" work be completed, given enough time to thoroughly dry as this will effect the moisture content of the job site.
• The exterior grading should be complete with all gutters, downspouts and drainage directed away from the building. The crawl space must have adequate cross ventilation (equaling 1.5% of the, on grade, total sq ft) and a vapor barrier of black 6-8 mil polyethylene film (covering 100% of the crawl space), joints overlapped and tapped. There must also be a minimum of 24" from the ground to the underside of the joists.
• Permanent HVAC systems must be working and in operation a minimum of 2 weeks before installation to stabilize the interior environment and to acclimate the job site. The HVAC also must be in operation during and after the installation to insure a stable wood floor. Ideal conditions are a temperature between 60-75 degrees Fahrenheit and relative humidity between 35-55%.
• Engineered wood flooring can be installed on, below and or above grade level, but should not be installed in full bathrooms or other wet rooms.
• Take special care if storing hardwood flooring at the job site. Store the hardwood flooring in a safe dry place making sure to provide a 4" air space under cartons that are stored upon "on-grade" concrete floors.
• Scandian engineered hardwood flooring must be kept in their unopened boxes prior to installation because the engineered boards don't need to acclimate to rooms humidity levels.
• Moisture content should be checked with the appropriate device to ensure proper installation conditions. Moisture content of wood sub floor should not exceed 12% and the moisture content of the wood should be within 4% (2% for planks wider than 4") of the sub floor.
• Concrete sub floors must be fully cured and dry (3lbs or less, when tested with calcium chloride test or the recommended reading on an approved electronic meter).

Sub floor Information:

Sub Floor Types and Requirements:

Preferred Plywood Sub Floor: Use 4'x 8' sheets of 3/4" CDX grade Plywood underlayment or 3/4" OSB underlayment with joist spacing 16" on center or 19.2" on center with a floor truss system. Leave 1/8" to 1/4" between sheets to allow for expansion. If floor truss's are spaced over 19.2" on center an additional layer of 3/8" CDX, laid diagonal or perpendicular to the existing sub floor, will be required.

Minimum Plywood Sub floor Requirements: 4'x 8' sheets of 5/8" CDX grade Plywood (3/4" OSB) with a maximum 16" on center joist construction 3/4" plywood or 19.2" on center with floor truss system. Leave 1/8" to 1/4" between sheets to allow for expansion. If joist system is spaced over 16" on center or over 19.2" with floor truss system, an additional layer of 1/2" CDX Plywood underlayment, laid diagonal or perpendicular, will be required.
* Sub floor must be flat (level) within 3/16" over 10' or within 1/8" over 6'.
* Using minimum specified materials at maximum span and spacing may result in movement, gaps, and noises.

Solid Board Sub floor: Should be 3/4"x 5 1/2" Group 1 dense softwoods, No.2 Common, Kiln dried less than 15% MC.

Particleboard: Scandian Engineered Wood Floors can be glued directly or floated to a HPVA approved minimum 40lb underlayment grade particleboard.

Concrete: Scandian Wood Floors Prefinished Engineered wood flooring can be laid directly to fully cured and dry concrete.

• Make sure concrete is flat, dry, structurally sound and clean.
• Test concrete for moisture using one of the following methods:
  
  Calcium chloride test: Follow test manufacturer's directions performing 1 test for each 250 s/f. Moisture transfer should not exceed 3 lbs per 1000 s/f.
  
  Moisture meter: Test each outside wall and 4-5 times in other areas of room. If meter does not indicate a quantified number for moisture but indicates the presence of moisture, perform Calcium Chloride test.
• Floor should be flat to within 3/16" in 10' or 1/8" in 6'.
• Substrate should be flattened to tolerance; grind high areas and fill low areas using a high compression portland based leveling compound.

If a concrete sub floor is lightweight (less than 100 lb) rule of thumb: Draw a nail across the top of concrete and if it leaves an indentation, it is probably lightweight concrete and can not be installed using the glue down method. With light weight concrete you must float the wood flooring.

Additional Sub floor notes:

Sub floor surface must be clean, level, structurally sound, and dry. Scandian Wood Floors will not be responsible for any product failure due to poor sub floor conditions or materials. Unsound or damaged sections should be repaired or replaced.

Sub- floor surface should be scraped or sanded clean and made smooth prior to installation. The surface must also be free of any wax, dirt, paint, oil, grease, sealers (except concrete sealers formulated by the adhesive manufacture when required), curing compounds and other debris.

It is very important to nail or screw any area of loose or moving sub floor that will cause squeaks. Scandian recommends the use of nails or screws every 6 inches along joists to ensure soundness of floor when complete.

Do not install over radiant heated floors unless the system has been turned on and operated continually for 2 weeks to totally cure the substrate for 2 weeks prior to installation. This must be done even in the summer time. You must follow all of the recommendations for the "Radiant heat association" or the NWFA recommendations for radiant heat installations. The use of a proper humidifier during heating times to maintain a minimum humidity level of 35% is required.

Sub Floor Inspection and Room Preparation:

• Sub floor must be completely dry. If installing over new concrete slab, allow 60 days or more to dry thoroughly. Installer must test the concrete using recommended testing methods and levels.
• Sub floor must be free of any paint, oil, greases, dirt, sealers (except a concrete sealer from the adhesive manufacture when required), curing agents, dust and other residues.
• If installing on any wood sub floor, the moisture content difference between engineered wood floor and wood sub flooring should not be more than 4%. Note: Wider planks 5" or wider the difference should be 2% or less.
• If installing over existing vinyl floor, make sure vinyl is free of waxes, polishes and is secured to the sub floor and that underlying sub floor meets sub floor conditions.
• Screw down all creaking and loose sub flooring.
• Remove doors and existing baseboards, quarter rounds and thresholds. Undercut doorjambs using a piece of flooring as a guide.
• Door frames and other wooden obstacles should be sawed off at the bottom to allow enough room for the planks to slide under.

Installation Tips:

• Evaluate job-site and sub floor condition to ensure proper installation environment.
• Read the product instructions packed in the cartons.
• The completed floor is only as good as the sub floor, proper site conditions and the installer.
• All solid wood expands across the grain- allow an expansion space the thickness of the flooring being installed. Engineered flooring needs to have this expansion also with the exception of some spots that may be abutted to a ceramic tile area or fireplace leveling expansion every where else.
• Flooring is manufactured on high-speed equipment. Should a piece be doubtful due to manufacturing, do not install it! Cut it for the wall line or put it in a closet.
• Make sure all exterior door thresholds are properly sealed with the recommended silicon.

Asbestos Warning: Do not sand existing resilient tile, sheet flooring, backing, or felt linings as these products may contain asbestos fibers that are not easily identified. The inhalation of Asbestos dust can cause Asbestosis or other serious bodily harm. Check with local, state, and federal laws for handling hazardous material before attempting the removal of these floors.

Wood Dust: Sawing, sanding and/or machining wood products can produce wood dust, which can cause a flammable or explosive hazard. Wood dust may also lead to lung, upper respiratory tract, eye, and or skin irritation, and some species of wood may cause dermatitis and or allergic respiratory effects. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has classified wood dust as a nasal carcinogen in humans. The National Toxicology Program (NTP) has also classified wood dust as a known human carcinogen.

• Avoid dust contact with ignition source.
• Sweep or vacuum dust for recovery or disposal.
• Avoid prolonged or repeated breathing wood dust in air.
• Approved respirators may be needed depending upon dust conditions.
• Avoid dust contact with eyes and skin. Wear Gloves and safety glasses when handling and machining the product.
• First Aid: If inhaled, remove to fresh air. If irritation persists, contact a physician.

Tools and Accessories:

• Broom
• Saws and jamb saw
• Dust Mask
• Hammer
• Ear Plugs and Glasses
• Chalk line
• Pencil
• Appropriate Adhesive
• Proper Trowel
• Tape Measure
• Hard Wood Cleaner
• Moisture Meter
• Recommended staples/cleats

Floating Installation:

Determine starting wall and direction to lay boards. An outside wall is normally best as it is most likely straight and square with the room. In cases of plywood and concrete sub floors, boards should be laid in the direction of incoming light. In cases of existing wooden floor, boards should be laid crosswise or at a 45 degree angle.

Lay underlayment in same direction as boards using a combination of polyethylene and foam underlayment or a 2 in 1 combined product making sure to tape the seams and over lap edges by 4".

Begin installation by laying first row of boards, groove side facing the wall.

Maintain expansion gap of 3/8" between first board and the wall by using spacers regularly along the length of the wall. Determine straightness of wall by snapping a chalk line. If starting wall is not straight, make notation on first row and saw to shape.

Without using glue, begin second row staggering end joints 8" to 10". Assemble 3rd row in same manner. Once first 3 rows are connected, remove row 2 and 3 making sure the grooves are clean and the spacers are in place.

Begin Gluing: Take your time, do not rush. Apply adhesive with a pointed applicator to the underside of the top of the groove. Make sure glue is applied in a continuous line (3/32" to 1/8" bead) otherwise your floor will squeak. Clean excess glue immediately with a damp cloth followed by a dry cloth. Adhesive allowed to dry on board surface will be difficult to remove and may leave a haze.

Using a tapping block (if needed), tap the joints together. Do not hit floor board directly with hammer. If needed, use a pry bar or pull bar at ends to pull boards tight.

Continue process across the room. The last board should be sawn to appropriate width allowing for 3/8" expansion space against finishing wall. Secure final board to rest by using spacing bar.

Glue down installation:

• Select starter wall. Usually an outside wall is best as it's most likely to be straight and square with the room.
• From both ends of your starter wall, measure out the width of two plants plus 3/8" expansion space. Snap a chalk line from these points parallel to the starting wall. You will begin to install flooring from this point and return later to install the first two rows later.
• Secure a straight edge along the chalk line and between the line and the starter wall, to assist in laying a straight floor.
• Spread adhesive starting from chalk line the width of 2 planks, using the proper trowel held at a 45-degree angle. Follow adhesive manufacturer's instructions concerning trowel size, temperature and airflow.
• Install the first row of starter planks, tongue facing the starter wall, along the chalk line and secure into place. Take your time. Proper alignment at this stage will ease the rest of the installation. Misalignment at this stage can cause side and end gaps to appear in future rows.
• Add second row taking care to ensure proper alignment. Once installed tape boards together with only a blue or green painter's masking tape to keep them tight and reduce movement and gapping. Remove any glue residue before applying tape. Note: Glue that dries under the tape may be hard to remove.
• Once first two rows are straight and secure, spread adhesive as far as you can comfortably reach across and continue to install boards, securing them into place. Never spread more than can be covered in 30 to 45 minutes. If adhesive dries, remove dried portion and apply again.
• As you install the boards, make sure to stagger end joints (at least 6" with 3" and 3 ¼" material and 12" with 5" material) and randomly install different lengths to ensure natural appearance.
• Continue across floor spreading adhesive and installing planks making sure to tape planks together as you go.
• Remove all excess glue immediately using cleaning solutions recommended by adhesive manufacturer. Always make sure cleaning cloth is clean otherwise it may leave a hazy residue on your floor. Note: Glue that dries on the flooring may not be able to be removed without damaging the floor finish.
• Once floor is complete return to staring wall, remove straight edge (if using) and glue down final two boards.
• The use of blue or green painters tape is helpful during the installation of a glued or floated floor but must not be left on the flooring over 24 hours as it can damage the flooring surface.

Staple or nail down installation:

Scandian wood floors does recommend the use of felt paper or rosin paper under all staple or nail down installations; however in some areas these items are not used as a standard practice in installation. And does not constitute a floor failure.

• Select starter wall. Usually an outside wall is best as it's mostly likely to be straight and square with the room. (You may also start in the middle of a room or area by using slip tongues or splines made for engineered flooring. To start in the middle or a room or area, you will need to fasten a straight edge (examples: 2"x4"'s or scrapes of the flooring) to the sub floor to install against).
• From both ends of your starter wall, measure out the width of one plank plus 5/8" (expansion space and tongue width). Snap a chalk line from these points parallel to the starting wall. You will begin to install flooring from this point.
• You will need the tongue facing out from the wall and along the chalk line. Secure the row of starter planks using finish nails on the groove side. Counter sink the finish nails and fill the nail hole with blending putty. You will also need to blind nail the tongue side with finish nails (6d to 8d) or 18 gauge if using a pneumatic nailer at a 45degree angle into the nail pocket at the top of the tongue.
• You will need to staple or nail 1" to 2" from the ends of the planks and every 4" to 6" along the sides of the planks throughout the entire installation. When installing 5" or wider planks, staple or nail every 4" along the sides.
• After the starter row is fastened to the subfloor you will continue to blind nail the next row or two rows until you can use a flooring stapler or nailer made for engineered wood flooring. Use 18 gauge or 20 gauge staples 1 ¼" to 1 3/8"long or 19 gauge to 20 gauge flooring cleats 1 ¼" to 1 3/8" long). Note: You can not install 3/8" or ½" engineered flooring with staples or cleats designed for ¾" solid wood, as they will damage the flooring.
• Continue the installation using staples or cleats until you reach the wall or until you can no longer use the stapler or nailer. You will need to blind nail by hand with finish nails or with an 18 gauge finish/brad nailer, the remaining 2 to 3 rows and then top nail the last row along the wall. You can also top nail the last 2 rows if needed. Counter sink and fill the nail holes with blending putty.
• As you install the boards, make sure to stagger the end joints (at least 6" with 3" and 3 ¼" material and 12" with 5" material) and randomly install different lengths to ensure natural appearance.

Installing Over Radiant Heated Subfloors:

Before installing over a radiant heated floor turn off heat and wait until the floor has reached room temperature (70º- 75º). After installing the floor, gradually return the heat to the previous setting.

Follow Floating or Glue Down Installation instructions listed above. Make sure to glue the end joints when using glue down method.

Note: When radiant heat is installed in concrete, mortar beds, or gypsum cement, it is very important to operate the heating systems until these are completely dry before you install your wood flooring on top. (This can take several weeks. Be patient.) Operate the heating system, no matter what time of year, until the humidity in the structure stabilizes to the average level expected for the area in which the wood floor will be installed. Then allow wood to acclimate to this humidity level before installation. This will minimize dimensional changes due to moisture.

For more information on Radiant Heated Subfloors go to NOFMA www.NOFMA.org, the NWFA www.NWFA.org, or the Radiant Panel Association www.radiantpanelassociation.org.

Completing the job

Fill visible joints and gaps with a non silicon based filler that blends with the floor color. Helpful hint: Test filler on spare piece of plank. Note: The use of fillers/putty is a recommended and acceptable industry practice.

Install molding and trim making sure not to nail into the hardwood flooring.

Sweep and vacuum floor then clean with Bona or similar Hardwood Flooring Cleaner.

*You must stay off floor for at least 12 hours when using either floating or glue down methods, and then remove tape as prolonged contact may damage the floor. Never leave the tape on the flooring for more than 24 hours.